She was one of the many grand buildings of Garli that had been lying ignored and unwanted by successive generations of our founding fathers.
One of the 25 odd structures, her job was to provide accommodation to travellers who came to Garli to ply their trade. Built by my Grandfather, Lala Mohan Lal in memory of his father, Lala Naurang Mal, she was initially called Naurang Sarai.
First, a bit of history
With the arrival of the enterprising Sood community in the area, there was a surge in economic activity, leading to an increase of flow of travellers and traders to Garli. They would need a place to stay, to ply their trade, and move on.
Taking care of travellers and traders was considered an important public service by the local people. Hence the need of creating a Sarai was felt. And such a Sarai would require a local benefactor who would not only build it, but also ensure its operation, maintenence and upkeep.
Naurang Sarai was built on similar lines of other major Sarais in the country. She was to provide many services. So her structure was made square in design with a large open courtyard (see illustration) . Rooms were built on the inside and shops on the outside. The rear portion provided necessary shelter for animals.
How the Sarai functioned
People would arrive with their animals and caravans to find a hospitable venue to rest for the night. Not only would they find rest, but also an opportunity to meet and interact with people from diverse regions—creating opportunities for exchange of material, culture, language, traditions, and ideas.
The courtyard was the hub of all activity. It was the venue for entertainment, a place for public and political discourse, a forum for interaction between the common public and the elite, a marketplace and the source of all the local juicy gossip!
It was also an opportunity for the local public to participate in the economic activity.
She provided employment – for cooks, watchmen, water bearers, cleaners and odd jobbers. Travellers had to be fed, they needed provisions, many services like ironmongers, barbers, cobblers etc. were required. Their animals had to be looked after.
A manager was made responsible for ensuring supplies, a proper distribution of meals to the travellers, and fodder for their animals. He also regulated the markets so that no unscrupulous trader could conduct their illegitimate business.
Fostering Economic activity
The constant flow of travellers to Garli ensured economic growth in the region, and Naurang Sarai played a pivotal role in this.
To foster inter village interaction and provide a forum for commerce, Lala Mohan Lal started an annual “mela” (a village fair) where neighbouring villagers could set up stalls and sell their wares. Like any other fair, there was entertainment, eats, games and shopping.It became so popular that even after a 100 years, it is still held every September and now named “Maidane da Mela”!
During the 1920s and 1930s Garli emerged as a hub of economic and Geopolitical activity. Such was their influence that even the then Governor of Punjab, Sir Malcolm Hailey, was obliged to visit Garli at the invitation of Lala Mohan Lal. He inaugurated the Water Supply of Garli, and attended a pre wedding function of Lala Mohan Lal’s daughter, Hema.
He rested at Naurang Sarai before returning to Simla.
The decline of Naurang Sarai
As stated earlier, the sarai was dependent on her benefactor, Lala Mohan Lal. He not only bought the land, but also built the structure, and then paid for its regular maintenance and upkeep. He was also the prime mover of commercial and political activity in the region. With his passing in 1933, the momentum slowed down, and slowly traders began to go to other places. By 1947, most economic activity came to a halt, as did the flow of visitors to Garli.
This affected not only the community, but also the building. The grand old lady, resplendent in her glorious wood and brick architecture, began to age.
Over the next 60 years, due to loss of regular maintenance and neglect, she fell victim to the elements. Her roofs leaked, her floors cracked, and slowly but surely, vandals started helping themselves to parts of her – the iron rods, the metal funnels, the wooden doors – till she was stripped of her dignity.
By 2012, she had become a garbage dump, a refuge for addicts, a centre for gambling and many such nefarious activities.
That was the year when we decided to do something about it. Read about it in the next post.
Wishing you all the best. I am sure, with your resilience and zeal, you will bring its glory back which it rightly deserves.
Thank You so much!
You are awesome when you deal with storytelling, displaying a factual description and revealing the documents cannot be more catchy than this
Thank you so much!
The grand old lady opens her doors again welcoming the new age traveler with her warmth and a touch of nostalgia of an era gone by. Congratulations are in order for the effort put into reviving our heritage and pride. May she rise again to the glorious days of the past.
Thank You so much for those kind words.
Eagerly awaiting the next episode. You seem to have a super gab of story telling.
Next episode will be out on thursday
Very interesting!
Yes, its been a roller coaster!
Really interesting read. Gives one the push to go and visit this place.
Welcome! Do plan after the monsoons, and come in a group
Very interesting read, gluey and good to add this piece of information. Al the best. Look forward to make more network of such stays. I visited this place and it was very great place to be at, beas river very near, old hospital building, ages old school and a beautiful village and what a wonderful Maidane da Mela that must be growing
Thank You!
Interesting piece of history.. should visit it soon.
Please do, it will be a pleasure!
The Garli sarai is a no frills but very comfortable and very clean place. The sarai gives you an opportunity to experience local cuisine. The linen, bathrooms -everything is really clean. Staff friendly and very helpful. It to me was a unique experience, not like a hotel, not a B&B – just a Sarai!
I would recommend Garli as a base camp to explore the region by car. Jwalamukhi, a boat ride down the Beas river, a visit to the Sanskrit university in the next village, Dharamsala all within motoring distance.
The village tour is an eye opener. I found the local village clinic very clean. The cardiologist ( it was his turn to visit) sat with his feet on the table. No patients! The village school was well equipped and the kids were charming. The veterinary hospital too was clean and well equipped with a friendly veterinarian. I didn’t know that all animals in the village were tagged, with medical records and their location in the tag!
We spent about 5 days touring the place and were glad to be back in the Sarai every evening to clean beds, wonderful food and welcoming staff.
Go for it! A wonderful experience.
Thanks for the lovely description, Arati, yes, I will be writing about those things too in due course
Interesting!
Looking forward to reading the rest of the story.
Our heritage homes need the care & thought.
….a legacy..,
Thank You. Do plan to visit us as well
Great read Atul . . Easy and soft paced just like the NYN being described.
Looking forward to part 2 🤩
Thanks
Fantastic blog… Read and reread… The history is intriguing…
We had the good fortune of visiting this lovely place in 2015 for our Class reunion..
From an old and dilapidated building (from the photograph) to it’s magnificent self in 2015..!! Only possible due to sheer hardwork and determination…
Kudos, Atul… Keep it up…
We are coming..once again…!!!
How about 2026? sounds like a plan?
Oh Yes…!!!
Always Yes…!!!!
God willing…
The idea of restoring a heritage building is a noble one. Especially one which has been so grand and central to the life of the town it once served so well. But it could not have been easy. Going by the 2012 picture it seemed to be on its last legs after decades of neglect. Very often in such cases there are long term many unauthorised occupants who refuse to budge. The legal owners are unable to get them to vacate. Unless there is a clear, undisputed chain even the ownership gets diluted within the family over generations, with some of the rightful shareholders either untraceable or unwilling to cooperate. Once these hurdles are dealt with, the amount of money, energy and dedication required to give a fresh lease of life to a property this size is considerable. Kudos for taking it up and apparently finishing it in style. From the comments of others a visit to Naurang Sarai promises to be a unique experience, but I would like to know a little more of what to expect before planning a trip. Waiting for Part II of your story. Rather the story of this over 100 year old property. It would only be the latest chapter in the long story of her life. She must have a lot many stories to tell and by reviving it you are ensuring that she collects many more. If only heritage buildings could speak. Congratulations. Send us some pictures of how she looks today and what she has to offer to her guests.
All of what you have mentioned is correct. We had our share of squatters and rabble rousers, and I think will share a few amusing stories as we go along.
We will be talking more about this place and many others as we go along
Thank you
Great efforts for reinventing the forotten heritage and glory of Garli
Thank You Sir! Look forward to your inputs also
That haunting picture and the comment – ’till she was stripped of her dignity’ – eloquently sum up the plight and decline of Naurang Sarai. I can now better appreciate the effort you have made to put it back in shape after reading the depths to which the monument fell.
It was lots of work, but worth it
A beautiful description. Worth every bit of effort put in for it’s restoration .Atul, wishing you and Ira,lots of success and joy ,in this venture .Youhave earned the blessings of your ancestors and elders truly.
Thank You so much!
Atul, its a great public service to resurrect an old building and connect the new generation to the bhumi. Writing about it is as important. Hearty congrats. Best wishes
Thanks Anantha!